Laksa Johor at Home: Spaghetti in Rich Fish and Coconut Gravy

Laksa Johor is the laksa that surprises people. Instead of rice noodles, it uses spaghetti, a quirk often linked to a Johor sultan who enjoyed pasta during travels abroad. The gravy is thick and rich, made from flaked fish, kerisik, spices and coconut milk, and it is topped with crunchy raw vegetables, herbs and a spoon of sambal.

It is a favourite during Hari Raya in Johor households, but it is just as good for a family lunch on any weekend. The gravy takes some time, so it makes sense to cook a big pot and freeze part of it.

Ingredients (serves 6)

For the gravy:

• 1 kg mackerel (ikan tenggiri) or ikan parang, or a mix, boiled and deboned
• 2 tablespoons fish curry powder
• 4 tablespoons kerisik (toasted grated coconut, pounded)
• 800 ml coconut milk
• 2 pieces asam keping or 2 tablespoons tamarind juice
• Salt and sugar to taste

For the spice paste (blend): 15 shallots, 6 cloves garlic, 3 cm ginger, 3 cm galangal, 3 stalks lemongrass and 15 dried chillies soaked and deseeded.

To serve: 500 g spaghetti, bean sprouts, cucumber, onion, daun kesum, mint, bunga kantan, lime wedges and sambal.

Step 1: Prepare the Fish

Boil the fish in enough water to cover it until just cooked, around 10 minutes depending on size. Keep the cooking water, because it becomes part of the gravy. Let the fish cool, then remove every bone and the skin. This is the slowest part of the recipe, so take your time. Missed bones in the gravy are the most common complaint at the table.

Once deboned, blend or pound the fish flesh into a coarse paste. Some cooks blend it with a little of the fish stock for a smoother gravy. If you are new to buying fish for this, our guide to buying fresh fish at the wet market explains what to look for.

Step 2: Cook the Gravy

1. Heat about half a cup of oil in a large pot and fry the blended paste over medium heat until it darkens and the oil separates. This takes about 15 minutes and is what gives the gravy depth.
2. Stir in the fish curry powder mixed with a little water and fry for another 2 to 3 minutes.
3. Add the fish paste and the reserved fish stock, then bring to a gentle simmer.
4. Stir in the kerisik and asam keping and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring often so the bottom does not catch.
5. Pour in the coconut milk, season with salt and a little sugar, and simmer gently for another 10 minutes until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

The gravy should be much thicker than a curry laksa soup. If it becomes too thick, loosen it with a little water or more coconut milk.

Key takeaway: frying the spice paste properly and adding kerisik are what make laksa Johor taste rich and nutty instead of thin and fishy. Do not rush either step.

Step 3: Prepare the Spaghetti and Toppings

Cook the spaghetti in salted water until just tender, then drain and toss with a little oil so the strands do not stick together. Some cooks rinse it briefly under cold water to stop the cooking, which keeps the texture firm.

The raw toppings are what make the dish feel fresh against the heavy gravy. Slice the cucumber and onion into thin strips, blanch the bean sprouts briefly or leave them raw, and finely slice the daun kesum, mint and bunga kantan. Set out lime wedges and sambal at the table.

Serving and Storing

Place a portion of spaghetti in a shallow bowl, ladle the gravy generously over it, then pile on the vegetables and herbs. Add a squeeze of lime and a small spoon of sambal. Diners mix everything together before eating.

Leftover gravy keeps in the fridge for two to three days and freezes well for about a month. Freeze it in portions so you can thaw only what you need. Reheat gently and add a splash of water, since it thickens in storage. Cook the spaghetti and slice the toppings fresh each time.

FAQ

Can I use canned sardines or tuna instead of fresh fish?

Some home cooks do this for a quick version. The taste is different and saltier, so reduce the salt and adjust with more tamarind and coconut milk.

Why spaghetti and not laksa noodles?

It is simply the Johor tradition. You can use rice noodles if you prefer, but then it is closer to other laksa styles.

Is laksa Johor spicy?

It is usually medium. Control the heat with the number of dried chillies in the paste and let people add sambal at the table.

Laksa Johor is a dish worth cooking in a big batch. It feeds a crowd, freezes well and tastes like a celebration, whether it is Raya morning or a quiet Sunday at home.